Hair Coloring Secrets

The color of hair is determined in part by hereditary and racial factors. Natural hair coloring is due to the presence of either brown or yellow and red pigments or a mixture of the two. It is important to understand these pigments because they affect the bleaching and tinting process.

Brown Pigment —The brown pigment is present in granular form. Little is known about its chemical nature except that it is combined with protein material. This makes it possible to change it with little difficulty.

For example, in bleaching, this pigment changes in a few minutes after the application of the bleach. The longer the bleach is left on, the lighter the hair becomes.

Yellow and Red Pigments —The yellow and red pigments contain iron and are present in granular and diffused form in the cortex cells. These diffused red pigments create the greatest problem in tint and bleach work.

The diffusion of the red pigment makes it difficult to destroy. This is especially apparent when preparing dark hair for silver or ash blonding. The reddish gold stage is reached in 20-30 minutes, while it frequently takes hours to bleach hair from this stage to a pale blonde.

These yellow and red pigments also cause dark shades to have reddish highlights, even when a drab tint is used.